I've been painting for some time a magnificent set of Mirliton Mamluk/Arabic Commander. Its striked me he could work in my planned Eastern Army as a Mughal CinC. I haven't decided what to do with him - Should he be Mamluk, or Saffavid Persian.. until I fancied to try and do a Lion and Sun Mughal banner. They work well together. Soe he bacame Babur first Mughal Emperror of India, Conquerror of Dehli Sultanate. Scourge of the Lodi. I wonder when he will get his army, but lets hope that sooner than later :) I have to found best model for historical accuracy and high level of multi servility (I want to use them in many armies as a non competitive player myself - and lets be honest there are no competition in Renaissance 15mm wargaming in any vicinity anyway - i will be playing mostly historical scenarios.. I hope that first Panipat will be in 2016)
As the victorious general (Me :) once said
God is on the side of big banners :)
Behold Ẓahīr-ud-Dīn Muḥammad known as Babur!!
And WIPs of a banner I had more fun painting than Babur himself :)
Big step in my quest for national cavalry (very lazy and long quest). 3 bases banner of Wallahian late cavalry. Took longer than expected due fo my dislike of the formation, but after reading a book on them they grew on me and so are finished. Now only Commander and last cossack banner to finish playable lowest force level (skirmish force) for With fire and sword rules.
Wallahian cavalry was in the beginning was rised from people of Wallahian (Moldavian) descent that were settled in southern Polish-Lithuanian commonwealth in Crown parts of the country. It duty was similar to Polish Tatar cavalry (that was predominant in Lithuania and Cossack cavalry [not to be confused with Polish cossack cavalry] in Ukraine). Mainle recon and supporting roles. Although such cavalry was very vital in fighting with Crimean Tatars - which were one of most notorious enemies of the Commanwealth. It gained prominence especially after rebellion of Polish Tatars in 1672. With time ethnical composition of Wallahian formations changed with Ukrainians and native Polish people taking place of the original mercenary Wallahians. It was mostly non-noble formation, with nobles sometimes serving in the leading roles, but service in Wallahian banners led to many nobilitations (mostly for officers of course). main weapon of Wallahian cavalry was sabre and bow, but richer soldiers could be equipped with pistols or even longer firearms.
Overall not very exciting part of the polish army of the period where Hussars and pancerni taking spotlight positions, but vital to Commonwealth army of the period.
And my whole national cavalry so far
From the left - Wallahians, Pancerni with lances and Polish cossack cavalry
Zamieszczam tutaj by było jakieś miejsce gdzie wisi i jest ze mną kontakt obu stron na raz
This turn will feature attack on a fortified german stronghold (after large artillery bombardment)
close by Meeting engagement, between matching forces and second round of beating of poor german recon - this time both parties are surprised in a meeting engagement.
Dla ciekawskich to widoczna obu stronom mapka z drugiej tury ( mutual visibility after second turn - the battle finished in a german recon being routed by soviet Juggernaut)
I am moderating campaign for a group of fellow gamers from Silesia. And I will try to use this blog for a central visibility hub for both sides
If you know me you know that I don't like terrain making. I have great ideas but i fail to finish most of them, and they lay everywhere for ages pissing off my dear wife.. That why i love when i can do something fast, cheap and make it look cool during the process.
So here are my How to make you wooden fence in easy steps.
Those are needed components. A coffee sticks (i salvaged mine from IKEA and Starbucks (but they can be bought in bulk. They are main component of build. Base will be ice cream stick - best kind are from magnum or similar posh ice cream as they give better stability. Last component required are 5 matches.
First you have to decide on fence heights, in this example I went for 30 mm of height. I built 40mm sections earlier, 50 mm shouldn't be any problem.You may reconsider the method and materials with smaller fences as it will star to look dodgy with anything smaller than 25mm cm.
I marked 30mm section on my coffee stick.
Then you have to make a supporting pieces. They are very important so you have to decide how long they should be. Best length is a 2mm shorter than whole fence section (for ease of lining them on the table and making corners. At this stage you need to decide on length of the whole section. As I went with ice cream sticks for bases I wanted it to be around 100mm long. Its worth to mention that fence itself should be a little longer than base itself (again for ease for stacking and making corners).
Then you have to gently cut a coffee stick in half..
Then its time to cut the boards themselves we marked earlier.
I used the scissors instead of exacto knife for two reasons. First its much faster, secondly t makes some of the little boards rough. Remove any splinters for worn out look. If you want very new fence use exacto knife for precise cuts.
Then its time to dry fit everything and make supports from matches. Just shorten them from the sulfur side.
Then its time for gluing: I used both wood/PVA glue - that I recommend, and superglue that bonds faster but its more difficult to work with, and you still need wood gluo later..
After gluing first support you have to tame care for all boards finishing in line on the bottom part of the fence. Fortunately wood glue leaves our a lot of time for fitting.
Now we are going to glue supporting posts, and glue whole section to the base. I do it in one step - glue is bonding fast enough and I am a bit reckless - but you may wait the fence to cure well before going to this step. Its important to don't glue posts before gluing to the base as they work in this piece of terrain exactly like in nature - they support the fence and decided on its potential tilt to the side. (Technically you could do this now and let it cure safely but it will be much more time and effort consuming.)
So after gluing a little matchstick post to the back spread glue on the whole base.
Then wait a minut or two and just delicately take the fence up and just stick it th the gratitiously smeared in glue base.
Now its time to fit it well. That is why we did not glue post before, after one minute they are glued but are still movable and let you control angle of the fence with gentle movements.
Now wait another minute or so and take whole unit gently and apply sand to the glue at the base... and voila..
Depending on how fast you is setting you might want to use something to keep it straight during the curing process.. I use miniatures with pointy sticks.
Finished fences look like that:
For something that take 10 minutes to do per unit and cost you practically nothing - its very very easy to do its pure win.
They could even work as is without painting - as you see coffee sticks have nice weathered and different colors. Its best to paint sand on the basses though, unless you are going for desert town.
My Napoleonic skirmish project is slowly coming forward. I've finished and based unit of Austrian German Line Fusiliers and von GRZkoff himself.
I am not fan of those Victrix Austrian models. They are cheap and fill ranks fast but hunched poses and especially faces left a lot to be desired (who thought that mouldline through the face is good idea Victrix ?!! They are worse than Frenchmen for sure. Only bonus is mounted colonel sprue in the box. von GRZkoff face is a lightyears ahead of fusilier faces.. In the end they will look good on the table but for my next box i will try my luck with Grenadiers, they have faces cast frontal not on the side.
I really like vonGZKoff face, its one of the most characterful Victrix faces I've seen (my second favorite is first Frenchman in the line on the action photo). I will use second one with some slight hat modification for a French officer. Sorry for lack of eyes but I have to confront the color with real life von GRZkoff first :)
And for the finish action shot (sorry for the void but i lack proper Napoleonic terrain yet :)